Lesson 1 — Footwork as the load-bearing skill
20m
No video on this lesson
Everything else is downstream of how your feet meet the wall. We’re going to spend this lesson on three things: how to place a toe with intention, how to load a foot without letting your hips sag away from the rock, and how to silently swap feet on a small chip.
The drill: pick a route a full grade below your onsight. Climb it twice. The first time, count out loud each time you re-adjust a foot after placement. The second time, climb it with the goal of zero re-adjustments. The difference is your homework.
What you should be feeling
If your calves are burning by the third move, you’re standing on toes that aren’t underneath your hips. The body is heavy; the feet are precise. Put the heavy thing over the precise thing.